RIFLE SCOPE:
The swarovski PVI-2 3-12x50 L, is to date, the best rifle scope that I have used. I've used it for two years now and its performance has been fantastic. It has great light gathering ability but the best part is the lighted l.e.d dot in the center of the crosshairs which can be activated with a simple twist of the height adjustment knob. This lighted dot helps in low light situations and also bright sunlight situations but what I like best is that it gives you a very distinct and exact aiming point when you are shooting at game. You put the dot where it belongs and
that's the end of the game.

RANGE FINDERS:
Leupold has come out with the best thing since "moms apple pie and icecream". Their new range finders come with a built in angle compensator which gives you the actual range and then give you what the "true ballistic range" is. Most of the animals missed are shot over because the hunter did not take into consideration the angle of the shot either up or down and the effect of gravity on their bullets trajectory. I used to have carry an inclinometer and a long ballistics table with me on any mountainous hunts, now all I need is my Leupold range finder. I have used it several times and it works great. Congratulation for Leupold for creating a very "hunter friendly" piece of equipment.

BINOCULARS:
There are many excellent brands available. I personally use Swarovski and Leica. Don't fool around with binoculars with small objectives, they are useless in low light situations. In thick cover,7 x 50's are best. In open country where long range viewing is required, my current favorite is the Leica 10-15 x 50. These binoculars allow you to increase your viewing power from 10 to 15 power with a simple twist of each eye piece, when you need a more up detailed up close look at what you're checking out.

BINOCULAR STRAPS:
If you use binoculars then you need a product which keeps the binoculars close at hand and not flopping all over the place. There are several products on the market. Crooked Horn makes one of the most well known and also Cabella's and Bass Pro carry's several types. I also developed a holder which meets all of my requirements. I wanted a product which was easy to use, easily adjustable for size, convenient, quiet, created no tension when using the binoculars, and also took the weight of the larger binoculars off my neck.

DEER CALLS:
Don Laubach's "Deer Talk" is good for long distance purposes, 100 yards plus but the best calls to be used in the typical brush filled close up Blacktail situations are the "turn over" calls produced by Quaker Boys or Primos. Its almost impossible to make a wrong sound with these calls and the sound is very realistic. These calls work good by just using them as they were designed but they make the best low volume doe bleat, doe in heat sound I've ever found. By tipping them up at about a 45 degree angle and blowing softly into the hole at the bottom you can make an quiet "irresistible" doe in heat bleat.

FLASHLIGHTS:
Unless you just going to use it around camp, purchase on of the small, light weight l.e.d. products. The bulbs with not break and the battery life is exceptional, typically 100 plus hours. They do not product as much long range distance light, as a regular flashlight bulb, but they give you all the light you need to clean out a deer, find something in your back pack, see to light a fire or find your way back to camp after dark. Even though a battery will give you several hundred hours of use be sure you always carry an extra set and be sure that your flashlight cannot turn on accidentally. I prefer a headlight style so my arms are free to be used for other purposes and the light is directed naturally where I want it to go, as I turn my head.

The worlds lightest l.e.d.headlight by Eddie Bauer.  This is a single l.e.d. with a relector, operated by one triple "A" battery.  A Mag Light it is not, but it creates plenty of light to see your way along a trail after dark, it is extremely lightweight and small, so its easy to carry in a fanny pack or even a pocket. To date I have ran it for 30 hours. at 2 to three hour intervals, on one battery and it still produces enought light to find my way in the dark.

KNIVES:
For those of us who are incapable of creating and keeping a sharp edge on our hunting knifes, there is an excellent product called the "Super Knife". It can be found in most of the sporting catalogues and also many of the hardware stores or tool catalogues. It uses replaceable blades from the typical "utility knife". It might not make a good "survival knife" but it sure does a good job when it comes to cleaning out our caping game and as long as you carry along a couple of extra blades, its never dull. I would purchase good heavy replacement blades.

HUNTING MATERIALS:
For backpack or fanny pack materials in cold weather do not use "silent cloth". It's only "silent" in warm weather. When cold it becomes very brittle and noisy. The standard polar guard covers work good in all weather situations.

RIFLE SUPPORTS:
If you're in a situation where you expect 100 plus yard shots in more open country the best support I've found in the Snipe-Pod. It is very light weight and is shock corded so it sets itself up when needed. It comes in a sheath which you can carry on your belt but I prefer to leave it attached to my rifle so that it is available for immediate use. I made a quiet polar fleece cover for it which is attached to my rifle with Velcro. One simple pull on one side of the cover releases the shock corded legs and I'm ready to shoot. No time lost and no hassles. www.snipepod.com

SHOES & FEET:
You cannot hunt well with tired, sore feet. Replace the insoles in your boots with some of special "shock absorbing and foot supporting" insoles available at hunting and sports shops or even the foot section of most large variety stores. If you're purchasing new shoes purchase the insoles ahead of time and put them in your shoes when trying them on, to make sure they fit correctly with the insoles and your hunting socks on. Since we're talking about hunting boots, I also recommend only high top boots (8" to 9"), fully laced up, in any type of steep, rocky terrain. Low top boots simply do not provide enough ankle support. A a badly sprained or broken ankle or leg is not much fun to deal with when you're a long way from camp or civilization.

FOR YOUR INFORMATION: I HAVE NO INTEREST IN ANY OF THE COMPANIES OR PRODUCTS WHICH I TALK ABOUT IN THIS COLUMN, NOR DO I RECEIVE PAYMENT FROM ANY MANUFACTURERS FOR ANYTHING I WRITE OR SAY IN THIS COLUMN. THE INFORMATION IS PROVIDED FOR ONE REASON AND ONE REASON ONLY, TO MAKE YOUR HUNT SAFER, MORE SUCCESSFUL, MORE COMFORTABLE AND MORE FUN.!! BOYD IVERSON